Kingston's Duo Bistro a study in fine taste
Duo Bistro in the Stockade district in Kingston offers a thoughtful, contemporary and thoroughly enjoyable menu.
Upon entering this establishment, a small bar area facing an open kitchen offered few seats for dining, but a side dining room opens for more spacious seating.
Bad acoustics in this area made conversation difficult, even hearing our server was a challenge. Softly colored walls featuring stunning framed paper art staged an upbeat environment. Generous service by our server and runners ensured we rarely lacked for something to enjoy on our table.
As is the case with many farm-to-table menus, the menu here was succinct, but innovative and exciting.
A case in point was the Crispy Avocado ($8) and the Summer Squash Fritters ($9), both appetizers. Thick wedges of fresh avocado were ever so lightly dusted with flour then flash fried for a few seconds. This created a whisper light crust on the avocado slices and also ensured a firm texture to the fruit. The dish was amped up with the addition of an unexpected sauce that sparingly swathed the plate. Bits of preserved citrus added a piquant note to a curry-based reduction sauce. It was reminiscent of a lovely chutney. Then to make sure the palate didn't become complacent, a sprinkle of berbere spice added a nice touch of heat to the dish.
The fritters were presented with as much consideration as the first appetizer. Two small cakes of shredded vegetable and aromatics were compact and fried to a crispy crunch with a soft and moist center. They were topped with a wedge of oven-roasted tomato and a side dollop of creamy house-made ricotta cheese. Oil infused with spinach and truffle held the cakes to the platter and added notes of earthiness. The combination of textures and flavors on this dish was wonderful.
Entrees were approached with the same amount of innovation and consideration. Perfectly cooked Seared Halibut ($26) was plated atop a generous portion of gnocchi made with acorn squash, which gave the dumplings a slightly golden hue. A sweet corn sauce topped the gnocchi and added sweetness and texture from the bits of whole corn in the sauce. A side of very lightly sauteed spinach added color and greens to a memorable dish.
Frequently, eating a Cornish hen in a public place can be a daunting feat. More thoughtfulness from the kitchen: It was partially deboned, making the small hen easier to consume politely. The skin was crispy and herbaceous, and the protein underneath was moist and succulent. Bread stuffing was used to anchor the bird to the plate. Sage and nuts and veggies studded this frequently bland side dish, elevating it to something to really enjoy. A mushroom sauce was paired with it, as was broccoli rabe. What could have been a potentially boring or uninteresting meal was just the opposite. Each component could have stood on its own and still be engaging.
From the beverage menu, we enjoyed some variety as well. The Raspberry Limeade ($9) was a grownup version of the summer favorite. Staff used Bols Genever instead of gin or vodka to make a very drinkable grown-up beverage. If you like Bloody Marys, there are three versions here. The Crimson Mary ($10) should have the word Hades in the title. The addition of pureed kimchee and a massive amount of horseradish created a drink for the stout of stomach as well as stout of heart.
Desserts should be considered as well. The primary flavor profile of the Lavender Honey Vanilla Ice Cream ($5) was the honey. It was almost overpowering, but the gentle finish of lavender blossoms rescued it. A crisp chocolate coating enrobed the Chocolate Covered Angel Food Cake (8). The cake itself was compact and dense instead of the ethereal texture typical of this heavenly dessert.
The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Theresa J. Marquez, Web producer for the Poughkeepsie Journal, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2005 with high honors. She has worked for Cooking Light magazine and is a local personal chef and culinary coach. Contact her at enjoy@poughkeepsiejournal.com
Dining review
Duo Bistro
★★★★½ (Very Good-to-Excellent)
50 John St., Kingston; 845-383-1198; www.duobistro.com; American bistro cuisine; hours: 10:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m. Monday-Tuesday, Thursday-Friday; 8:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday; closed Wednesday; reservations accepted for parties of six or more/weekends; Visa and MasterCard accepted; vegetarian entrees available; no gluten-free offerings; catering services available; handicapped accessible
Price range: $6-$13, brunch/lunch; $16-$26, dinner; children's menu available
Directions: From Poughkeepsie, cross the Mid-Hudson Bridge, heading west. Follow the signs to Route 9W North. Travel north on 9W for about 16.5 miles. Turn left onto Garraghan Drive in Kingston, then turn right onto Broadway. Continue on Broadway for about 1.5 miles. Turn left onto Albany Avenue and in about .2 mile, turn right onto Clinton Avenue. At about .5 mile, continue onto North Front Street. Be on the lookout for Crown Street on the left, turn left onto Crown Street then left again onto John Street. The restaurant is on the right side of the road.
Ratings breakdown
Food ★★★★★
Ambience ★★★½
Service ★★★★
Value ★★★★★