Step out of your wine comfort zone
OK, it may be a little late for New Year’s resolutions, but we still have 11 months in front of us. How about a wine resolution? How about something like, “I resolve to get out of the rut of cabernet and chardonnay.”
Maybe also throw in pinot noir and merlot. Remember that there is a very fine line between a rut and a groove. Now, you have 11 months to explore an ever-expanding universe of grapes that are being crafted into interesting and exciting wines.
If you are a fan of Bordeaux varietals, perhaps now is the time to try carmenere. The carmenere grape is an ancient variety from the Gironde area of France that historically was part of a typical Bordeaux blend. Today, very little is still cultivated there.
Over time, cuttings were sent to Italy (where it was confused with cabernet franc) and to Chile (where it was confused with merlot). Recent DNA analysis has identified this grape in both regions.
Today, the greatest cultivation occurs in Chile, where it not only is used for blending but also produces a fine standalone varietal. Northeastern Italy and Washington state also produce excellent carmenere-based wines. Look for distinct red berry and black pepper flavors, occasionally coffee and chocolate nuances.
Tired of Chianti? Try wine made from the nebbiolo grape, which is indigenous to the northern Italian Piedmont region.
If you’ve thought of trying Barolo or Barbaresco, both made from the nebbiolo grape, but were put off by the price, look for nebbiolo offerings that come from areas adjacent to these agriculturally defined and restricted regions. Adjacent areas have similar climates and conditions and often produce outstanding varietal wines that are not permitted to use the more exclusive geographic designations.
Try excellent examples from the Langhe district, which give unique varietal definition at a fraction of the price of nearby brethren. The flavor profile tends to be of a lighter-colored dry wine redolent of herbs, licorice, tar and roses — great with roast meats.
Branch out on the white side of the equation as well. By now, many folks know that sauvignon blanc is grown around the world with fine examples coming from New Zealand and California. These wines are a useful alternative to chardonnay and are often attractively priced. What is frequently overlooked is white Bordeaux wine that can be value priced — a surprising concept when one thinks of wine from Bordeaux.
White Bordeaux, like its red counterpart, is usually a blend of grapes — sauvignon blanc and semillon. Both grapes are close genetically and hail from the Gironde region. The percentage of each grape will vary according to the vintner and that is where the winemaker asserts his or her unique interpretation of the wine. The semillon contributes good body and lanolin while the sauvignon delivers lemony and herbal flavors -- a successful marriage.
So make a resolution to move out of your comfort zone this year, try new wines and, most importantly, enjoy!
Three to try
•2011 Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere(AT), D.O. Peumo, Chile, 14 percent alcohol, $25. Full body, soft mouthfeel, hint of typical black pepper.
•2012 Langhe Nebbiolo(AT), Cascina Roccalini, Italy, 13.5 percent alcohol, $22. Dry, a bit austere, tannins under control, great with red pasta.
•2013 Graville-LaCoste(AT) (semillon/sauvignon blanc blend), Graves, France, 12 percent alcohol, $20. Look for the 2013, avoid 2012. Refreshing, full body, has the best elements of each grape in perfect harmony. Good value for a white.