Wine: 5 wines to kick off fall sipping

Now that we are seeing hints of fall in the air, we shift our thinking about the types of food we are yearning for and the wine that will accompany it. We are ready to move on to more substantial fare.

That usually means tilting back to more red wine on the table — although if my wife had her way, we would have red wine on the table every evening, regardless of what is on the plate.

She is not alone. Many folks just tolerate white but prefer red wine.

But what red? There are many grapes to choose from and I truly enjoy them all, but when I look at what we actually consume, there is no question that wine made from pinot noir occupies disproportionate space in our cellar.

That's because it goes with more dishes than just about any other red grape. Not only is its culinary compatibility great, but the range of flavor and nuance also is enormous.

Pinot noir is now grown around the world and this extensive distribution gives vintners in many different places (with many different climatic conditions or terroirs) the opportunity to show how they believe pinot noir should taste. Understandably, there is no unanimity of opinion.

The pinot noir grape has been around for close to 2,000 years. During this period it has been called by different names depending upon the part of the world where it was cultivated. However, starting in the 1300s the name pinot began to surface and has been used since.

Because it has been around for so long, the pinot grape has given rise to numerous spontaneous mutations and now there are at least 1,000 registered clones of pinot noir.

The pinot grape also is the DNA grandparent of many red grapes such as lagrein, pinotage and pinot meunier. Again, because of spontaneous mutation and according to DNA analysis, the pinot grape also is the surprising grandparent of white grapes as well, including, among others, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and columbard.

Pinot noir grapes can be finicky to grow and probably are the greatest test of a wine producer. However, when all the elements of viticulture and winemaking come together harmoniously, the final product is truly a revelation.

Home base for pinot noir remains in Burgundy, France, where highly sought-after wines can cost more than $1,000 a bottle. Oddly enough, more pinot noir is grown in Champagne, where it is used to make the eponymous sparkling wine, than in Burgundy.

Recently, newer locations around the globe are starting to get high marks for quality and especially for value. California has exploded with wines from Sonoma, Santa Barbara and the central coast. Oregon is producing world-class wines and New Zealand is starting to gain attention.

But there are further surprises. On a recent visit to Quebec, our host pulled out a bottle of Bulgarian pinot noir. It wasn't exactly world-class but it was decent, interesting and a solid interpretation.

Be on the lookout for pinot noir. Most people I know are always on the lookout for soft, fruity wine that is easy to like. The upper tier pinot wines offer not only abundant cherry and raspberry fruit (that isn't sweet), but also a subtlety that might include reference to mushrooms, forest and truffle along with soft approachable tannins.

I have deliberately chosen wines to try from different regions as a starter. The French interpretations tend to be a bit more austere, the American more fruit forward.

Find out which style your palate most appreciates, but most importantly, enjoy!

5 to try

1. 2011 Bachelet-Monnot Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France; 12.5 percent alcohol), $30. French style, relatively austere, thin body, slightly tannic.

2. 2012 Coelho Atracao Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, Ore.; 12.9 percent alcohol), $20. Soft entry, lovely mouth feel, light body, unidimensional.

3. 2010 Louis Latour Marsannay (Beaune, Cote-D'Or, France; 13 percent alcohol), $25. Slightly austere, moderate tannins, modest fruit, opens up in glass.

4. 2013 Landmark Vineyards Overlook (Sonoma/Monterey/San Benito counties, Calif.; 14.4 percent alcohol), $25. Soft, full body, great entry and finish, balanced tannins, a winner.

5. 2008 Gunn Estate (Central Otago, New Zealand; 13 percent alcohol), $25. High acid that demands decanting. Once decanted, a very pleasant, fruity wine with a round mouth feel.

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Rob Stein, an orthopedic surgeon in Nashville, Tenn., has been a wine enthusiast and collector for more than 40 years.